A Study on the Prediction of Wave Deformation Model

J. Ocean Eng. Technol. 1995;9(2):41-52.

Ok Chi-Yul,Min Ill-Kyu

파랑변형 모형의 예측에 관한 연구

옥치율,민일규

밀양산업대학교 토목공학과,동아대학교 해양자원연구소 특별연구원

Keywords: nearshore zone, wave deformation model, wave height, wave direction, reflection, radiation stress, turbulent model

핵심용어: 연안역, 파랑변형모델, 파고, 파향, 반사, 기류력, 난류모형

Abstract

the necessity of development of the Nearshore zone greatly emphasis in recent years. In the wave deformation model, we can get the wave height and wave direction using the hyperbolic mild slope equation considered the reflection wave. Radiation Stress the driving force of flow was calculated by the Watanabe and Maruyama who proposed on the partial standing wave. In the surf zone, applying the Izumiya and Horikawa's turbulent model considered the bottom friction and energy dissipation, we compared and examined with the Numerical model and Hydraulic test result of Watanabe and Maruyama. This model results obtained for Jin-ha Beach agreed well with the Numerical results. This model is expected so helpful to solve the prediction of the wave deformation problems in the development of the Nearshore zone in the future.