Research on Wave Kinematics and Wave Loads in Breaking Wave

J. Ocean Eng. Technol. 2007;21(1):18-24.

Lee, Soo-Lyong;Kang, Byung-Yoon;Lee, Byeong-Seong;

Tongmyong University;Korea Research Institute of Medium & Small Shipbuilding;Korea Research Institute of Medium & Small Shipbuilding;

쇄파의 유동구조 및 쇄파력에 관한 연구

이수룡;강병윤;이병성;

동명대학교;중소조선연구원;중소조선연구원;

Keywords: Breaking wave, Dispersion relation, Breaking point, Breaking region, Particle kinematics, Wave load

핵심용어: 쇄파, 분산성 관계, 쇄파점, 쇄파영역, 유체입자 운동, 파력

Abstract

When the wind blows strong, most waves are breaking at sea. Breaking waves occur by exceeding the limitation of wave steepness (wave height/wave length = 1/7). Because a wave of single angular frequency couldn't generate the breaking phenomena at a two-dimensional ocean engineering basin, the breaking wave can be generated by the superposition of waves with various angular frequencies based on dispersion relation. This study investigates the particle kinematics in the breaking wave and the magnitude of the breaking wave exciting force at the breaking point and breaking region. We compare the regular wave load in a regular wave, which has same specifications (wave height, period and length), with the breaking waveload. Also, the experimental results of wave exciting force and particle velocity are investigated, by comparison with the analytic results using the potential theory.