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J. Ocean Eng. Technol. 2005;19(2):29-33.    

Shoaling and Breaking Characteristics of Fully Nonlinear Boussinesq Model
YOON JONG-TAE;PARK SEUNG-MIN;
Department of Civil Engineering, Kyungsung University;Department of Civil Engineering, Kyungsung University;
완전비선형 Boussinesq 모형의 천수 및 쇄파 특성
윤종태;박승민;
경성대학교 토목공학과;경성대학교 토목공학과;
Copyright © 2005 The Korean Society of Ocean Engineers     Open access / Under a Creative Commons License
Key Words: Shoaling, Breaking, Nonlinear, Boussinesq Model, Numerical Model
핵심용어: 천수, 쇄파, 비선형, 부시네스크 모형, 수치모형
Abstract
The accuracy of predicting wave transformation in the nearshore is very important to wave hydrodynamics, sediment transport, and design of coastal structures. Numerical experiments are conducted to identify the shoaling and breaking characteristics of a fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation-based model. Simulated shoaling showed good agreement with the Shouto's formula, and the results of the breaking experiment agreed well with experimented data, over several beach profile.


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